Notes from Provence

Why I love this part of Provence...

2011-03-25T08:48:00.001-07:00

The Real Provence

Its true that if you want a decent cocktail somewhere like the Hotel de Paris, Monaco might be your best bet; and if you`re in the market for a €6m house (who isn't) then as I write Peter Mayle`s place in the Luberon has just come on the market. But if you`re looking for the “vrai” Provencal experience rather than the glitz, then our “coin” – the Vaucluse – delivers in spades. To locate you, we are the most northerly part of Provence, with Mont Ventoux and the city of Avignon our most famous landmarks.

The mountain, known to the French as the “the giant” dominates the landscape, at 1900m it towers above the plain and appears to be snow capped in all seasons though in reality the summit is made up of a white limestone shingle that just looks like snow from down below. For the cyclist the ascent has iconic meaning – it’s the zenith of many cyclists riding ambitions every one of whom follows in the footsteps of the Tour de France greats - Lance Armstong, Eddie Merckx, and Contador have all won yellow jerseys on this stage. We are constantly surprised how guests with only moderate fitness levels are inspired to conquer the 21kms route. For Brits there is the added poignancy of the Tommy Smith memorial – Tommy was England's only serious TdeF contender, he died of a heart attack on the mountain in the 1967 race. There is a slightly bizarre – but moving nonetheless – tradition of “leaving something for Tommy”, an empty energizer can for example, so that at the end of the season the memorial resembles a giant recycling plant.

On days when the mountain feels like too much hard work cyclists and walkers should head for the the Dentelles de Montmirail, my favourite landscape of them all, around 20 miles of craggy limestone peaks rising majestically from hills at around 500m. This is truly stunning terrain – I once got held up for nearly an hour behind five brand new Ferraris on a photo shoot – its that sort of “film set” country with its terraced vineyards, olive and fruit trees and dramatic cliffs. In the centre is the Abbay St.Madeleine de Barroux, a working Benedictine monastery where the curious can drop in 6 times a day, from 3.00 am! to listen to the monks`s service with it`s Gregorian chants. Not far away is a shop where they produce and sell the most delicious olive and walnut bread and press their own brand of olive oil. The monks are of all of ages from around 18 to 70 - every now and again they are released to “randoneé” around our village of Malaucène. With a backpack each, loaded with baguette and picnic, you have never seen such a cheerful bunch as they profit from their release for the day.

For the dedicated foodie this is paradise indeed. The great Provencal markets of Carpentras, Vaison la Romain, Nyons and Sorgue present a visual and sensory feast – locally produced fare is what they are all about and our catering schedule at La Madelene is strictly tied to their seasonal calendar. starting with the Asparagus season in the first days of spring and progressing through strawberries ( the famous Carpentras variety), cherries, Cavaillon melons, spring lamb from Sault, and onto winter pumpkins, trufffles, ceps and girasol mushrooms and those fat juicy pomegranates we use to stuff guinea fowl. Restaurants are no less enticing. The mountain attracts serious hunting sport from local farmers and much of the produce ends up on the tables of our favourite places. One such is Entrechaux`s St.Hubert, a restaurant that has been in the same family - the Mourets - since the 1920`s. The family are delightful – in the Second World War they ran the local resistance from the restaurant here. Game and seafood is the house speciality. As I write the menu “formule” at just €38, a 4 course extravaganza plus ameuese bouche, features their legendary “Civet de Sanglier” (wild bore casserole). This is genuine trencherman stuff – served in a gigantic copper saucepan at a side table. When you`ve fought your way through the huge serving they help you to – and believe me this is super rich, thickened with the pig`s blood – there are two identical helpings left in the pot just in case you`re feeling peckish.

And to wash all this down with - why, in my view, the best wines in the world. The great American wine critic Robert Parker described Rhone wines as delivering “the best quality/value equation of any fine wine region in the world” He isn't wrong. Their reputation is based on robust spicy Grenache based reds and peppery violet scented Syrahs but there are also the summer fruit laden Tavel rosés, the fragrant viogniers and the almond and stone fruit white Chateauneufs that rarely travel outside the region. The latter village is a must see destination for the visitor: The centre of an often Mistral wind-swept, undulating plateau next to the Rhone the 300 + vignerons here fashion sublime, hedonistic wines – for sipping and contemplation rather than quaffing. The Chateauneuf brand is justifiably famous worldwide but the village itself is anything but affected – it’s an agricultural village where you are more likely to see tractors and trailers than tourist buses. They are however not without a quirky side: In 1954 they passed a law refusing to allow flying saucers (“cigares volontes”), a topical global concern, to land and disturb the vineyards. Apparently the law is still in place! All part of the Provencal charm...

Surprising and unusual sighting in the garden...

2010-11-29T08:55:00.000-08:00

No not a rare bird of prey but Lily and her best friend here Maella helping to clear the leaves. Well done girls...

lily's 13th birthday

2010-10-11T08:47:00.000-07:00

Summer arrives...glorious weather here at La Madelene

2010-05-24T02:41:00.000-07:00

After a too wet spring...enfin we have glorious weather here again at La Madelene!

Snow in Provence: biggest fall for 40 years

2010-01-10T09:03:00.000-08:00

We have a white out here in Malaucene...as the old lady who I passed en route to the village said:"c'est jolie mais ce n'est pas practique"...too right, we have had a 40 hour power cut meaning no central heating or hot water since friday morning, and we cant get the cars out to the road...hence the shot of Jude on the long trudge into the village. Lily at least is happy...no school last friday and looks like we wont make it tomorrow morning. At least the fridge and the wine cellar are full!

Meilleurs voeux and a Happy New Year to all our guests and friends

2010-01-05T03:58:00.000-08:00

Happy New Year to you all....I hope you had as good a Christmas as we had, it was lovely to have all (or almost all) our family around us again.

Feedback on our winter wine course...

2009-02-20T23:44:00.000-08:00

Images are 1. the group outside La Madelene, and 2. Karine Diffonty of Vatican nearly beeing blown off the Le Crau by a fierce mistral. The report from Mark Sullivan's blog:

Ellen and I joined a small group in a wine class. It was presented by Philip Reddaway, a British transplant living in Malaucène, a nearby village. Philip and his wife Jude run “Rhone Wine Holidays” (www.rhonewineholidays.com) from their 12th century home, formerly a Benedictine priory. Their longer wine tour packages include rooms, meals and wine education for the wine enthusiast. For three consecutive Tuesdays, we forced ourselves to taste wines from the area. The course included presentations by Philip in La Madelène’s atelier and tastings—in the atelier, at lunch and on-site at selected winemakers’ tasting rooms. Philip’s WSET certification and experience give him a knowledge of the wines of the area and the wine-making process. But he also knows many of the Rhone wine makers and selected from among many good ones to take us to some wonderful wineries. We tasted wine in some of the most picturesque locations we have seen in Provence. We talked with the wine-makers and, in several instances, went into the vineyards. We walked through the famous stone fields of “La Crau” in the Chateauneuf du Pape region and through mountaintop vineyards in Suzette and above Seguret. We met vintners who have embraced bio-dynamic production and have thus eliminated the use of herbicides. We enjoyed wonderful lunches prepared by Jude Reddaway at “La Madelène.” For the final Tuesday of the course, Ellen’s high school classmate and her husband joined us and our classmates. (Nancy and Tony live in London.) They got to go to Chateauneuf du Pape (www.domainedenalys.com & www.cuveeduvatican.com), back to La Madeline for lunch and then to the top the hill above Suzette to try some white wines and red wines from the high hills (www.domainestamant.com). I have included a picture from Domaine St. Amant. When we were at Domaine de Nalys in Chateauneuf du Pape, we got a tour of the winery. Different from the little wineries, the whole site is set up for tours (VERY clean & neat). Even the barrels have the Domaine’s shield carved into the oak. …and they make some fine wine there. At the second winery, we climbed into old trucks and went out to see “La Crau.” It is hard to describe, but think of a field of stones – a white stone like those you find on the shores of Michigan as far as you can see – and growing in this field of stones are vines. In the summer, the stones get hot – but reflect a lot of the sun, keeping the plants a little cool during the day and keeping the plants warm all night long. The clay under the stones holds moisture well, so the plant roots – which might go down one or two meters – find the moisture to nourish the plants and the grapes. The woman who was showing us “La Crau” had to shout in order to be heard above the sound of the Mistral which was whipping across La Crau at amazing speed. As Philip had mentioned in class, the stones are unique but also very difficult for walking and thus it can be hard to find laborers who will work the fields at La Crau (winter pruning, summer pruning, fall harvest, etc.) In addition to the sites that Nancy and Tony got to enjoy visiting with us during their five days here, Philip also took us to: Domaine de Mourchon (www.domainedemourchon.com) This winery is located at the top of the hill between Vaison la Romaine and Séguret – on the same route that Tish and I took when we walked from Vaison to Séguret. Chateau de Saint Cosme (louis@chateau-st-cosme.com) is located just at the north part of the village of Gigondas. The winery has been owned by the same family for 14 generations and they produce a wonderful Gigondas. Vincent Rochette runs Domaine Roche-Audran (vincent.rochette@mnet.fr), a winery started by his grandparents. In the past few years, he has switched to a “bio-dynamic”

Kids in disguise and the headmaster in a dress - what is going on in Malaucene?

2009-02-20T23:37:00.000-08:00

Lily took part in the traditional half term fancy dress parade through the village...dressed as a nurse...as you can see the headmaster, the man with the classic french moustache and the chic dress got into the spirit of the event...

Janasse 'Terre d'Argile":simply gorgeous

2009-02-02T04:51:00.000-08:00

With a roast chicken last night a simply gorgeous Cotes du Rhone villages – the 2006 Janasse ‘Terre d’Argile”. Janasse, of course, produces top notch Chateauneuf du Pape but alongside these it crafts a range of Cotes du Rhone that punch well above their weight. The Terre d’Argile comprises equal parts Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. Its shows a dark ruby red in the glass, has an open nose of garrigue herb and bacon fat, on the palate gives a mouthfilling concentration of blackberry, red cherry, liqorice, and Syrah spice. The tannins are already super smooth and there is a delicate sweetness on the finish. A really classy example of a village level wine…though at €13 more expensive than most Gigondas. One to follow..

A lesson in Lotto

2009-01-17T08:21:00.000-08:00

One of those slightly surreal evenings last night – playing lotto in aid of Lily’s school in the village of Malaucene. Earlier in the day we were met with bemusement as we tried to buy tickets in advance- confusing lotto with a tombola, how stupid. The proceedings kicked off just after 8pm as the MC called the numbers from the Marie. Like most of the players we were in one of the 4 bars in the village receiving the event across the airwaves from the Marie and relayed by loudspeakers into the bar. The idea of the Mayor being able to address the village’s drinkers in such an intrusive way struck me as somewhat bizarre, not to mention the sight of 20 or so kids, including Lily, gambling happily in a bar at 9 o’clock at night. What would the Daily Mail make of it? Needless to say famille Reddaway came away with no winnings…though that could have been the result of trying to keep 10 lotto cards monitored after drinking two glasses of Grimbergen biere de Noel!

In praise of Mourvedre

2009-01-10T04:35:00.000-08:00

This is part of a series of short pieces I write for Brighton community newspaper the Westhill Whistler: If you’re new to wine writing and you come across the acronym GSM you’d be forgiven for assuming it was something to avoid in your wine or at least treated with suspicion – in the same category perhaps as GM or MSG. In fact it’s accepted short hand for the classic blend of “Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre” that dominates red wine production here in the south of France and is increasingly popular in parts of the New World. The minor player and least well known by far of this triumvirate is the Mourvèdre. Its origins are Spanish where it’s known as Monastrell. To add to the confusion surrounding it the wine makers of California and Australia generally call it Mataro. If I add that this grape variety’s popular name in France is “estrange chien” (strangle a dog) due to its fierce tannic properties when under-ripe, you might further wander what place it has in the classic GSM blend and why I have entitled this piece Marvellous Mourvèdre? The fact is that when fully ripe this is the variety that contributes many of the flavour and aroma components that I find most compelling. Its main friut character is blackberry but in truth fruit is not it’s forté – young Mourvèdre is all about garrigue herb, grilled meats and just a touch of animal barnyard. In full maturity it develops rich leather and game flavours. These properties account for its key role within the GSM blend adding interest to Grenache’s fruity and Syrah’s spicy character. In short Mouvèdre is often the key to real complexity. Most Mourvèdre ends up in a blend but if you want to explore the variety solo that’s certainly possible – I would recommmend you seek out the french appellation Bandol. The wines here contain up to 80% Mourvèdre, they are big tannic wines but not without finesse and with an ability to age for several decades – top names are Pibarnon and Tempier. With global warming allowing better ripening conditions for “difficult” varieties, and demand growing for rich red wines with high alcohol, my forecast is Mourvèdre has a great future and will become increasingly visible to the wine buying public. How best to experiment? My “best buys” would include the Spanish Castano Monestrall 2006 Yecla availble from Avery’s at just £6.29 per bottle. A wine packed with damson and black cherry fruit, sweet vanilla as well as spice and game, this is a veritable bargain – wines from this property regularly gain scores of 90+ from Robert Parker making its “cost per Parker score” rating unbeatable. If you’re minded to splash out, go for the sublime Bandol Domaine Tempier 2006 vintage available from the Wine Society for £19.00 a botttle, or if you believe the only way through the recession is to persue hedonism with abandon why not invest in one of the finest wines in the world, the vintage 2000 Chateau Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape available from Berry Brothers at just £51.85 the bottle – a wine with a significant 30% Mourvèdre content and a wine to lose yourself in! Cheers

Parker hails 2007 Rhone vintage as "vintage of a lifetime"

2009-01-07T09:57:00.000-08:00

The highly influential US wine critic was in the region this past autumn to taste the 2007 vintage - his conclusions: this was a stellar vintage, a "vintage of a lifetime": "Throughout the southern Rhone, 2007 is the greatest vintage I have tasted in my thirty years working in that region…Nearly every producer has attained largely unprecedented levels of quality." The wines contain an "aromatic dimension and freshness that I have rarely witnessed" combined with "super depth of fruit!". There has been some speculation that Parker's huge market influence could precipitate a Bordeaux style hyper-inflation in prices - it would be a shame if it were the case as Parker himself once stated in his seminal 1985 book on the Rhone, the region offers: ""the greatest quality/price ratio of any top red wine region in the world". Here are some of the scores achieved by the top wines at Chateauneuf du Pape, all of these special cuvees:
Clos Saint-Jean Chateauneuf du Pape Deus Ex Machina (98-100)
Clos Saint-Jean Chateauneuf du Pape la Combe des Fous (98-100)
Chateau Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape Hommage A Jacques Perrin (98-100)
Clos des Papes Chateauneuf du Pape (98-100)
Domaine du Pegau Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee da Capo (98-100)
Pierre Usseglio Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve des Deux Freres (98-100)
Domaine de la Janasse Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Vieilles Vignes (98-100)
Chateau Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape Roussanne Vieilles Vignes 97+
Chapoutier Chateauneuf du Pape Barbe Rac (96-100)
Domaine Roger Sabon Chateauneuf du Pape le Secret de Sabon (96-100)
Pierre Usseglio Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee de Mon Aieul (96-99)
Domaine de la Mordoree Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee de la Reine des Bois (96-97+) Domaine de Marcoux Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes (96-98)
Domaine de la Janasse Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Chaupin (95-99)
Paul Autard Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Juline (95-97)
Les Cailloux Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Centenaire (95-97)
Domaine du Clos du Caillou Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve le Clos du Caillou (95-98) Chateau Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc 95
Domaine de Cristia Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes (95-98)
Domaine Grand Veneur Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes (95-97+)

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The wines of Mont Thabor

2009-01-07T09:20:00.001-08:00

To Chateauneuf yesterday to meet Daniel Stehelin, vigneron and father to Manon , who as girlfriend to Florent Lancon had been our guest for lunch a few weeks back. The property is a grand chateau just outside of Bedarrides. The place was built in the 18th century as a mansion for the Marquis de Vaucroze. The name Mont Thabor was given by Don Pernety, the founder of the sect of Illuminés of Avignon: At the property he planted trees coming from the Israeli mountain, Mont Thabor.
From 1840 the place became "Relais de Diligence", a place to stay for travellers on the road between Paris and Marseille.In 1881 the property was purchased by the Swiss Fritz Stehelin. He changed the stables and garages into rooms for wine making. Luc Stehelin (from 1940) expanded the wine production from the fields around the castle (Cotes du Rhone). Daniel Stehelin, a man with twinkling eyes and a classic french outsized moustache, took the reigns at the property from his father Luc in 1971- his father is 93 years old, blind, but still it would seem able to take a stroll around the front garden.
This is truely a micro-production outfit - the property has just 4 ha. of Chateauneuf du Pape, well situated ( a neighbour of La Nerthe on the south side of the appellation) and 7 ha. of Cotes du Rhone adjacent the chateaux. Chateauneuf du Pape is made from 80% Grenache, 15% Syrah and Mourvedre and 5% Cinsault. The average age of the vines is 70 years. Daniel is experimenting with his white Cotes du Rhone, the latest trial being a barrel fermented version - we tasted the 2007 version from the barrel in the wine-making cave converted from the old stables. Further tasting in the salle de degustation revealed a very animal red CDR, a muscular tannic 2005 CNduP and a rich 2004 - ripe fruit, grilled meats and pepper on the finish - a delightful mid-weight CNduP. I couldnt resist a case. Nice wines made in almost "garage" proportions, delightful proprietor and a wonderful place to visit...watch this space for our tour itinerary!

The big freeze cometh..

2009-01-07T09:14:00.000-08:00

About 10 cms of snow fell and settled around La Madelene this morning. Not as unusual as you might think in this part of the Vaucluse. Looks stunning though makes driving on the country roads around us a perilous activity. Time to hibernate in the warmest room with the biggest open fire - the kitchen and sip warming full bodied red wines, good thing we happen to be in the right place for those!

A drive around the Luberon villages

2009-01-01T10:25:00.000-08:00

Excursion today around the Luberon villages. The weather overcast and threatening but with the benefit that for the most part we had the roads and tiny village streets to ourselves, a real treat. Gordes is oh so pretty, chi-chi even, relatively bustling - the weekly market doesn’t sell any vegetables at all or anything you could cook a meal with, only tapenade, truffles, honey, material etc. And the immobilier includes Sothebys, which tells you all you need to know re the price of the local “real estate”. We moved on to Roussillon, which rises from the ochre plain in a dazzling variety of red to orange hues, a stunning sight. The centre of the village twists and turns, a fabulous door at every corner. We had a great meal at The Bistro in the square opposite the bookshop (itself well worth a visit) – Cabillaud was the favourite dish, plus a local Viognier. On the way home we passed the Abbey de Senanque on the road between Gordes and Venasque nestling down in the valley.its image is over familiar as it’s used on millions of postcards mainly because of the lavendar fields in front of its graceful façade, but even within winter, unadorned, we gasped at its sheer beauty.

What we've been drinking this Christmas...

2008-12-28T07:33:00.000-08:00

Some good bottles …actually some great bottles …were done justice to this Christmas, and theres still New Year to come. Highlights: La Gitana Manzanilla, my favourite sherry bought for me by Jude from Spain – cant buy it here unfortunately as the french don’t seem to acknowledge the existence of sherry; Vatican La Sixtine, rich white CnduP, the perfect foil for Christmas day guinea fowl and Bonnefond’s 2005 Cote Rotie still a bit tight but delicious nonetheless with the civet de biche (female venison) on Christmas Eve; a great lime zesty and honey Zind Humbrecht 2002 Riesling Clos Windsbuhl, very moreish and popular with the boxing day cold spread; and finally a Christmas pudding in a glass – the Warre’s 1977 vintage port immaculately stored in Emmanuel college’s wine cellars. Still a few glasses left in the decanter. Cheers!

A very merry Christmas to all our clients and friends

2008-12-21T08:41:00.000-08:00

Thick snow on Mt. Ventoux since last week, Lily and I joined thousands this morning to enjoy some sledging and building this snowman…somewhat reminscent of a certain mayor of our acquaintance this chap. After two hours of fun, freezing hands and hungry we freewheeled the 18kms back home in search of warmth and food. What a delight to have all this on our doorstep.
A very merry Christmas to all our clients and friends....

Tasting with Laurence Feraud, Domaine Pegau

2008-12-14T02:54:00.000-08:00

To Chateauneuf du Pape..again, such hardship..for a meeting and tasting with the village’s arguably most eminent female winemaker Laurence Feraud of Domaine Pegau. This is a property that has risen to stellar hights in quite a short period…her father Paul only started bottling their own wines in the 1970’s, the name Pegau (derived from the Provencal for a drinking vessal) only came into being in the late 80’s. Still today the property is modest, the cave is something of a mess by Laurence’s own admission and the only signs of commercial success aside from Laurence’s Audi are the heavy diggers working on a brand new cellar adjacent to the existing one due for completion before next harvest. Pegau is a fine example of a family estate..father Paul at close on 70 still works the vines (spread around the appellation at different locations) and assists in the cellar, Laurence who has an Oenology degree and joined the business in 1987 has led the wine making since the early 90’s and travels widely as part of her marketing remit, whilst Mme Feraud looks after the books in the office. There are only 3 other full time employees. The estate comprises 19 hectares of CnduP, including just 1 hectare of white varieties, plus a further 6 hectares of an excellent vin de table red “Plan Pegau”. Laurence also buys in wines she likes from Gigondas and Seguret, marketing them as “Selection Laurence Feraud”. Around 85% of the CnduP production goes into the Cuvée Reservée. The cepage: 85% Grenache, 9% Syrah, 4% Mourvedre plus a sprinkling of the other authorised varieties. Average age of the vines is 60 years. These wines are made in as traditional a manner as it gets in the appellation – hand picked, whole bunches in the tanks, natural yeasts, a relatively short maceration of 7-14 days, and maturation for a minimum 18 months in 50 hectolitre foudre. No barrique interlopers here. There is a minimum of fining and filtering. The cuvée Laurence is made in exactly the same way but is aged for longer whilst a premium cuvée the Da Capo is made in fine years from a selection made from the better plots and aged for 18-24 months. The white is made from 60% Grenache, 20% Clairette, 10% Bourboulenc/10% Roussane. With Laurence and her US distibutor JC Mathes of J et R Selections I tasted all four wines from either barrel or bottle. The wine with most immediate appeal was the current release of the 2006 Cuvée Reservée, pronounced leather and spice on the nose, super sexy velvet tannins and herb infused red fruits and an elegant long finish. The body is medium to full, definitely a Chateauneuf trying to seduce rather than blow you away with its power. Unquestionably delicious now, it will last another 10 years or more. Parker score: 91-93. I put any thought of economic restraint on hold and purchased a case…for La Madelene Rhone Wine Holidays customers naturally!

Chaume-Arnaud : a great Vinsobre producer

2008-12-02T04:53:00.000-08:00

Excursion this afternoon to the village of Vinsobre, one of the 7 Crus of the Southern Rhone and for me the least well known. I visited Philippe Chaume of Domaine Chaume-Arnaud. This is a producer that I came to know via their excellent white wine La Cadène as its on L’Oustalet’s list at Gigondas and I’ve often selected it as the aperitif for clients when we’ve had dinners there.
The domaine is on the long straight road going up to Nyons via St. Maurice, though their best plots are up on the hill, to an altitude of 400 m overlooking the road and across to Mt. Ventoux. There is no marketing pretension here. Having been to Mourchon at the weekend the contrast is what first strikes one…the tasting room compises a barn housing the fermentation tanks, an old barrell positioned inside the barn door in front of the tanks (the only wood as it turns out in the winery as Philippe is strictly a beton/innox man) with some bottles arranged on it, no brochures, literature or other flim flam, not even a sell for their organic/bio-dynamic status. The wine here speaks for itself. Philippe who I disturbed tinkering with the tanks along with his rugby playing son – off soon to Ireland to complete his studies, learn english and play some rugby – talked me through the gamme, and I tasted the 2007 blanc, so popular it seems that there is a quota system, you need to buy two reds to every white purchased, then the 2005/2006 Vinsobre and then the haute gamme “La Cadène” reds, the 2000 and the 2004, these are old vine Granache + Syrah, Mourvedre, very concentrated and long, the 2000 animal/herbal the 2004 a little closed but very pure red berried fruit and great structure, will be a treat in a few more years. Great value is to be found here, the white (a 50:50 Marsanne/Viognier with a hint of Clairette – rich stone fruit cut with remarkable acidity for this part of the world) is just €10, the Vinsobre 2005 that I bought was €8.50 and the La Cadène, equal of many top Gigondas was €14. I regretted not buying more as soon as I drove away. By the way Philippe and his wife Valèrie who is equal partner in the wine making itself are part of the fascinating group of like minded (many organic, all fiercely independent artisans) known as the “Toques des Dentelles”…literally the Dentelles crazies!

Linda's WSET study tour report

2008-12-01T00:55:00.001-08:00

A full report on the 2008 WSET Rhone study tour from Linda Piggott-Vijeh

The following is the report of Linda Piggott-Vijeh on her visit to La Madelene in October for the 2008 WSET wine tutors study tour. Linda is a multi-talented lady whose experience covers professional cooking, hotel inspecting, training in the advertising world as well as wine , cookery and french teaching. She also finds time to serve as a local councillor in her home of Somerset - she was a delight to host on the study tour. Here’s her report:

It was the last wine that did it for me…the 1999 Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape… my tasting notes read yummy, yummy, yummy, a meal in a mouthful, intense fruity nose, deep dark purple hue, tobacco, leather, spice, chocolate, coffee, SO complex, tannins still in evidence but soft, unctuous….. a classic blend of 30% mourvedre, 30% syrah, 30% grenache, with a smattering of…… (too tipsy by then to remember!). Well it would pass muster wouldn’t it, at over £100 a bottle, and then if the old purse strings could run to it in the current economic climate, hardly available. Oh well, reality sets in eventually, but what a wine to finish with.
I was later to learn that C-de-P do not contribute towards the overall marketing budget for promoting Rhone wines, preferring to remain aloof, not wanting to be seen to mix with the hoi polloi… snobs.
Thank you Philip. He being our host and tour leader, a recently displaced ex-pat from, you’ve guessed it, London. He, together with his amiable wife Jude, their adorable daughter Lily, and milkshake and pumpkin the two resident felines, the latter a late addition the day before our arrival, has quickly made his mark on the local wine scene offering tailor made tours for wine buffs and novices alike. Based at La Madelène, near Malaucène, their beautifully renovated, stylish, light and airy property, complete with wood burner and swimming pool, accommodates groups of up to 14,
On this trip there were just the 3 of us, a cosy and disparate group, some suffering from jet lag and a strong dislike of bovine flesh. Not me, not at all, although Jude was happy to cater to all diets with her fabulous home cooked meals, enough to convert any meat eater to the delights of chick pea and courgette pie.
Our three-day journey took us through the Southern Rhone, and an exposure to the delights of wines made from up to 15 different grape varieties, each one adding their own special character to the final blend. I’ve always been a fan of Rhone wines, the basic Cotes du Rhone Villages wines, readily available for under £4 a bottle, and always reliable, forms the backbone of my standard daily plonk at home. I had however remained largely oblivious to the depth and breadth of these great value wines. Get in while you can. Bargains abound as the wine toffs often shun these wines, overlooking them in favour of flashier Burgundy and Bordeaux.
On being collected from Marseille airport, we began our trip in earnest, in the delightful cru of Beaumes De Venise at Domaine des Bernardins.
This was the first winemaker to gain AOC status in B-de-V, back in 1943. As was soon to be the pattern for our visit, we were hosted by the youngest member to join the family winemaking business, in this case the affable Roman Hall (6th generation). Like many of the 60 wines we sampled during our stay, these are fermented and aged in stainless steel (in many others large cement tanks are also used). B-de-V is of course known for its intensely sweet fortified muscats but of the 7 wines produced here we were able to sample several reds, not often seen in B-de-V.
Over dinner the first night we sampled a modest selection of 8 (!) wines covering the spectrum of what we were to expect in the coming days. These included a grapefuity Viognier (Domaine Brusset, Les Clavelles2007) and another interesting white from Rasteau (Domaine des Coteaux des Travers 2006) with lime and citrus notes. Always a fan of single grape varieties I particularly enjoyed the opportunity to sample the 100% mourvedre (Domaine Rabasse Charavin 1999), like liquorice and cream. However, my pick for this tasting had to be the Muscat de B-de-V (Domaine de Beaumaric 2006), noted as rich, full bodied, like clotted cream on toast with a hint of honey and toffee undertones ‘thunder and lightening’ – did I mention that I’m particularly partial to dessert wines….!?
Back to work the next morning, in the classroom, when Philip introduced to his basement atelier and an excellent presentation introducing us properly to the delights of the region, its characteristics and history. On hand to keep us on our toes was fellow ex-pat Nick Thompson who makes wine at nearby Cairanne (L’Ameillaud), a village heavily pushing forward with plans for attaining AOC status, which could rock the boat a bit.
Next stop, the formidable Christine Saurel at biodynamic vineyard Montirius. She has been here for 22 years, the fifth generation of her family, a theme that ran throughout the week – it seems that once it’s in the blood ……. As practically a vineyard virgin it was a treat to find she had left some grapes on the vine for us to taste, despite the end of the harvest several weeks before. The grapes in this case were Syrah and in our tutored ‘tasting’ of them it was simple to identify the characteristics of each component –

Pulp – apples and almonds
Pips – pepper and hazelnuts
Skin – black cherries and plums
For Christine ‘balance’ is the key to the wines they make here. Montirius has been biodynamic for 12 years and all grapes are hand harvested, which takes around 18 days from their holdings of Grenache (70ha.); Syrah (30ha.) and Mourvedre (20ha.) situated mainly in the AC areas of Gigondas and Vacqueyras, with each plot co-planted. Once picked the grapes are only gently pressed to split the skins (as for the carbonic maceration method used in Beaujolais). Each day’s harvest is fermented separately (unusual), with no added yeast, in cement vats. Montirius produces around 150,000 bottles a year and in general their yield is slightly lower than the legal limit of 33hl./ha. All the red wines here undergo malo-lactic fermentation and are left on their lees for anywhere from 7 days to 3 weeks, before being aged for a minimum of 18 months. Stainless steel is only used for their white Vacqueyras. Like several other vineyards we visited there is a recent move here, for economic reasons, towards employing locals to help with the harvest. Down in the cellar we were able to sample wine from the same tank siphoned off just two days apart - the difference was remarkable. Back in the family tasting room we discovered the origins of the name Montirius – a combination of the names of their 3 children – Manon, Justine and Marius.
On to Domaine les Goubert in Gigondas, where young Florence Cartier, a recent wine school graduate, was our hostess, under the watchful eye of her parents. Here their 22ha. of vines, a full combination of the ubiquitous Rhone grapes, produce mostly red wines, approx. 60 -70% of their total production. All their wines undergo malo-lactic fermentation and their Gigondas is mainly aged in new French oak barrels for 9 -24 months, the oak coming from 3 different forests. Whilst wines have always been aged n oak here Florence’s father was the first to use new oak. White wines are aged in barrels that are 3-4 years old to give a softer character. Florence’s family have been making wine here for at least 300 years. They prefer not to filter their wines too much and all their wines are fermented separately prior to the assemblage. No chemicals are used in the vineyard and yield is between 25-30hl./ha., giving a total annual production of 80,000 bottles, 49% of which is Gigondas.
After a short break (we never seemed to get back as early as we’d planned, in large part due to the generosity of our hosts) we returned to restaurant L’Oustalet in Gigondas for a splendid fine dining experience in a village restaurant owned by the local mayor, who along with his relatives, seems to take a keen interest in all the activities hereabouts. One interesting feature of the meal was a ‘combination’ dessert with four different elements all made from olives.
The following day, intended as the highlight of the trip, we spent in Chateauneuf-du-Pape ,where the symbol of crossed keys is a prominent feature on every bottle produced. First stop was at Cuvee du Vatican where Karine Diffonty’s father-in-law was the mayor for 30years and one of the original members of the local Syndicat d’Initiative. A memorable ride in Karine Diffonty’s trusty (and very muddy) old camion took us up to their vines planted at ‘La Crau’, the very special location and site of the famous galets – round pebbles that are notable for their heat retention.
Here the Diffonty’s have 2.5ha. of gobelet trained Mourvedre and Grenache. This year the yield was very low, only 20hl./ha. By law only Syrah and Cinsault can be wire trained, all other grape varieties here are bush trained, hence their low stumpy knarled appearance. On ‘La Crau’ there are 300ha. the best vines C-d-P can offer, owned mainly by the top producers. This comprises 10% of total area under vine in C-d-P. Cuvee du Vatican produces around 100,000 bottles p.a. of which only a tiny proportion, 5%, is white. Fermentation takes around 3 weeks and natural yeast is used, although not exclusively. Karine was keen that we should taste their award winning cuvee (4th in Decanter tasting in 2005) and has few fears about the impending economic recession, maintaining that with the luxury end of the market, where demand always exceeds supply, the effect will not be drastic. Karine, along with other producers we spoke to was well aware of the changing face of the wine industry ‘We are not just farmers any more, we need to be involved in marketing, distribution and other commercial aspects’. Karine is also aware of other factors affecting their future, and with global warming in mind they plan to plant 1ha. of Counoise this coming year with a view to developing their future blends.
Domaine de la Solitude was next on the itinerary, where Florent Lancon, with his handsome Italianate looks, entertained us in style. The property has been in his family’s hands for 400 years when his ancestors came over with the Pope. Direct descendants of the Barbarini family whose, motto is ‘All that the Barbarians haven’t done, the Barbarini's will do’.
This is not a family to be messed with, evidenced by the many antiques that were plundered locally. Yields from their 33ha. of C-d-P and 40ha. of Cotes du Rhone, were again very low this year at around 20hl./ha., in line with others in the region. This was This comprises 10% of total area under vine in C-d-Planted by the very cold winter in 2007/8 , lots of rain preventing pollination of the flowers and the fact that due to the high rain levels many of the vines were affected by oidium. Florent was very excited by their new label the 100%Ggrenache ‘Cornelia Constanza’ his very first wine since graduating from college. The family also own 1ha. of precious pre-phylloxera Grenache vines, discovered when Florent was digging up old vines planted in a sandy area close to the house. The ‘Cornelia Constanza’ is aged in oak barrels from the Caucasus mountains, the reason for doing this explained by barrel maker Moreau offering a free trial.
Lunch followed at a hillside restaurant in C-d-P, Le Verger des Papes, which in fine weather would afford splendid views of the surrounding countryside. Although not as elegant as our dinner venue the night before I much preferred the honesty of the cuisine here.
Last stop of this memorable visit was to Domaine Maby in Lirac, where once again the latest generation of the family was beginning to exert their more modern approach towards wine making in the area. Richard’s grandfather, who is now 87, first started this vineyard and most grapes continue to be harvested by hand.
Richard Maby, whose harvest had only finished 10 days ago, told us that production this year was down by 25%. To make their fine award winning rose (La Fermade) the grapes are de-stemmed and macerated on their skins for 24-48 hours before being pressed pneumatically. All 13 approved Rhone grape varieties are grown on the 60ha. under vine here, although the bulk of their wines are made from Grenache or Grenache Blanc grapes. Six or more grape varieties are used in their rose blends, whilst for their white wines 5 varieties, including ugni blanc, are used. The grapes are macerated, and fermented in stainless steel, making it easier to control the temperature, allowing for a slow fermentation over 20 – 30 days. Additional yeast is not usually added, and with 300,000 bottles a year production, Domaine Maby is the 3rd largest producer in Tavel. The new bottling plant here also allows the wine to be bottled without any exposure to air and the traditional ageing in oak has been surpassed by the use of cement tanks, stainless steel and a small number of oak barriques.
The AC of Lirac has the only independent wine producer (Beaumont), whereas Tavel has 30, although Tavel is the only appellation in France with AOC for rose only.
All in all a great whirlwind trip covering the Southern Rhone, and all the more so because of our ‘selective’ group and the attentions of our hosts.

Linda Piggott-Vijeh
Nov. 2008

Mourchon gets us in the Christmas spirit

2008-11-30T02:24:00.000-08:00

With great elan Domaine de Mourchon's annual Marche de Noel has kicked off the festive season. Wonderfully decorated the winery has been given over this weekend to about 25 stalls selling everything from Christmas decorations, antiques to books and toys. Lily and I went along and enjoyed catching up with some friends, a mince pie and some retail therapy: our haul - a National Trust victorian advent calendar, a magnificent looking Christmas pud and a 1982 Armagnac - gorgeous rich prune/pudding spices - from the oenologist Sebastian's family farm. With Hugo I tasted the 2007 Mourchon family reserve from the barrel...already showing an expressive savoury nose and great structure. Lovely outing, shame that the mistral/rain spoilt it for the stall holders who had set up outside.

Pumpkin settles in...

2008-11-18T07:28:00.000-08:00

Only a few weeks ago these two were hissing and clawing at each other as Milkshake stoutly defended his turf against the interloper Pumpkin....today they are curled up together like brothers, a marvelous turn around and delightful to witness.

Alary comes top in Decanter tasting

2008-11-17T10:24:00.000-08:00

Decanter’s December issue includes a blind tasting of named Cotes du Rhone villages…the 18 villages that have the right to show their name on the label and that sit within the aoc heirarchy between Cotes du Rhone villages – no name – and the Crus of Gigondas etc. I was delighted to see that Domaine Alary at Cairanne, one of the domaines in our tour portfolio, came out as the most highly scored wine in a field of 100+ wines. Congratulations Denis….much deserved. The slightly odd feature of the article to my mind was the comment that the tasting revealed many disappointing wines: “Cairanne was the biggest disappointment” commented taster Andrew Shaw the wine buyer at Waitrose. Yet when I look at the wines showed it seems incredible that most of the stars of the commune were not represented…where were Oratoire St. Martin, L’Ameillaud, Rabasse-Charavin and Marcel Richaud for example? A tasting without these present just isnt go to do it justice…perhaps Decanter should consult with those here on the ground that drink these wines everyday

Season of the Pumpkin

2008-11-12T22:26:00.000-08:00

The veg of the moment is the pumpkin...or Provence's particular version of the species, a large ( up to around 5kgs) green/orange or dusty orange skinned "Courge". The flesh is delicious when roasted either in a simple risotto..I add roast garlic..or with fennel/carrots on a bed of couscous. Or try a classic soup, this recipe from our Vaison based celebrity chef and cookery school host Patricia Wells works well, even without the truffles!:

Ingredients:

2 pounds pumpkin, peeled, cubed

1 quart chicken stock

sea salt

1 fresh black truffle, c 2 oz

1 tsp pumpkin seed oil or walnut oil

In the stockpot combine the pumpkin and stock and bring to the boil, cover and cook until pumpkin is soft around 15 mins+

Puree the mix in a food processor until smooth.

Bring back to simmering point again, season and serve with shavings of truffle and pumpkin seed oil

Whistler Christmas wine Quiz

2008-11-12T03:42:00.000-08:00

Are you Brighton’s biggest Wine Brain?

One of the drawbacks of being a professional wine tour operator is the occasional wine “ know it all” whose pleasure is derived from scoring points off fellow travellers, myself as tour leader (obviously a fun target) and sometimes even, most embarrasingly of all, our host vignerons. The only way to manage these disrupters is either to humour them into boredom or to have a sufficient fund of wine minutiae up your sleeve to return service with an ace.

So how do you measure up on the wine knowledge front? My Christmas quiz should give you a fair benchmark as to whether you are the wine buff equivalent of a Babycham or a Dom Perignon.

There are 21 questions in three categories according to difficulty…Liebfraumilch, Beaujolais and Petrus. Good luck!

Level 1 Liebfraumilch
1. In which country is Soave made?
2. What colour grape is the Gamay?
3. Is Rioja matured in American oak or Spanish oak?
4. What black fruit flavour is most commonly associated with Cabernet Sauvignon?
5. Can black grapes be made into white wine?
6. Which white grape variety has led the current growth of wine exports from New Zealand?
7. As wine ferments sugar is converted to alcohol- what is the other by-product of the process?

Level 2 Beaujolais
1. Which of the following are fortified: Canadian Ice Wine, Sauterne, Muscat de Beaumes de Venise?
2. Which grape variety makes Bandol rosé?
3. Where in France would you expect to find a Sylvaner?
4. In Malolactic fermentation is the lactic acid turned into malic acid or vice versa?
5. Which South African wine producing estate exported superb dessert wine into Europe in the 18th century?
6. What soil type is common to the Chablis as well as the English South Downs wine producing areas?
7. What does QmP stand for on a German wine bottle?

Level 3 Petrus
1. Over which famous Bordeaux wine did Jancis Robinson disagree violently with an American wine critic?
2. Name the alledged favourite champagnes of Winston Churchill and General de Gaulle respectively?
3. Name the main grape variety that makes the Hungarian dessert wine Tokaji?
4. Who was the founder of Chateau Beaucastel whose name is used for their top cuvee?
5. Which is the native country of the vine species Vitis Riparia?
6. Which wine-producing nation has never suffered from the Phyloxera louse?
7. Name the Californian wine that “beat” top french bordeaux to the top slot in a famous blind tasting held in Paris in 1976?

Mail your answers to me, Philip Reddaway, at rhonewineholidays@googlemail.com. Anyone achieving a full house qualifies for an immediate 10% off our 3 day wine holidays or day tours and a free magnum of Chateauneuf du Pape on arrival. The answers will be published in the next issue of the Whistler alongside my usual article.

Happy Christmas!

If you are interested in one of our Provence based wine holidays please visit www.rhonewineholidays.com, or if you just want a fabulous place to stay as you drive through France we now do bed and breakfast – see www.bighouseinprovence.com.

Mt Ventoux stage chosen for amateur’s legendary Etape de Tour

2008-11-06T05:55:00.000-08:00

L’ETAPE DU TOUR 2009

Monday 20th July
Montelimar to Mont Ventoux, 172km

The Etape stage is chosen…its coming our way. La Madelene will host a cycling party via specialists cyclomundo who will take part in the Montelimar-Ventoux stage on the 20th July next year…full details:

“Ride a classic mountain stage of the Tour de France”

Last visited in 2000, the Etape du Tour will return to the Mythical Mont Ventoux in 2009 on Monday July 20th, and will follow the exact route of stage 20 of the 2009 Tour de France.

This will be the 17th edition of the famous Etape du Tour, the stage of the Tour de France that the public can ride, and over the years, we have seen many famous stages replicated but only few live up to the sensations of climbing and finishing on top of Mont Ventoux.

Mont Ventoux “The Giant of Provence” is seldom visited by the Tour de France and when it is everyone hopes it will be the stage chosen for L’Etape du Tour. Well, in 2009 your wishes have been granted….

This will be an extremely popular Etape du Tour that appeals to all cyclists. The route is challenging enough for the hardened cyclo sportive rider yet within the capabilities and a huge achievement for the Etape virgins.

The stage route starts from the city of Montelimar, on the Rhone valley and features four smaller climbs (3rd & 2nd category climbs (Côte de Citelle 19km, Col d’Eye 70km, the Col de Fontaube 92km, and the Col de Notre-Dame des Abeilles 126km) before a long descent to Bedoin and the 21.5km climb to Mont Ventoux.

Route details19km Côte de Citelle 5.2km at 3.9% (3rd Category)70km Col d’Eye 6.3km at 5% (2nd Category)92km Col de Fontaube 4.7km at 4.3% (3rd Category)126km Col de Notre-Dame des Abeilles 7.8km at 4% (2nd Category)172km Mont Ventoux 21.2km at 7.6%

The start in Montelimar is only 70km from the base of Mont Ventoux and therefore makes it possible to offer fixed centre location packages.